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Self-Coached Climber: The Guide to Movement, Training, Performance, by Dan M. Hague, Douglas Hunter
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"Still the best book on improving at climbing ... worth every penny and more." -- Dave MacLeod, online climbing coach blog
A dynamic package of training material from a pair of expert coaches, The Self-Coached Climber offers comprehensive instruction, from the basics of gripping holds to specific guidelines for developing a customized improvement plan. Hague and Hunter base their methods on the four fundamental components of all human movement--balance, force, time, and space--and explain how to apply these principles to achieve efficient results. The DVD presents live demonstrations of training exercises and features an original documentary of a 5.14a/b redpoint attempt by Adam Stack and Chris Lindner.
Self-Coached Climber was named a finalist in the Mountain Exposition Category at the 2007 Banff Mountain Festival. For more information go to: http://www.banffmountainfestivals.ca/festivals/2007/book/finalists.asp
- Sales Rank: #47163 in Books
- Color: 9780811733397
- Brand: Hague and Hunter
- Published on: 2006-02-17
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 9.13" h x .44" w x 7.25" l, 1.40 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 240 pages
- In full color with 52 practical training exercises designed to advance technique
- Detailed anatomical illustrations explain climbing physiology
- Includes an 85-minute DVD that shows concepts in action
- Self-Coached Climber�was named a finalist in the Mountain Exposition Category at the 2007 Banff Mountain Festival.
- Written by Dan Hague and Douglas Hunter, both elite climbers with years of training and teaching experience both out in the open air and in the gyms.
About the Author
Dan Hague is an 18-year veteran in the indoor climbing industry who has built and managed 4 climbing gyms, the latest in central Virginia. He also consults with gym operators and sits on the Climbing Wall Association's Board of Directors. He is an avid climber, winning his division of the Triple Crown Bouldering Series in 2010. Douglas Hunter was a full-time climber and coach for 10 years, during which time he trained many elite climbers and was a top level sport climber. He now lives and climbs in Southern California, where he continues to develop new training methodology.
Most helpful customer reviews
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
Interesting...not worth the money for me
By Erin
I was looking for something to help advance me to the higher 12s, low 13 level on lead. The movement pieces were interesting, but I wanted something more useful like how to improve movement and clipping efficiency on lead, which is different than moving on top rope. 4X4s and running laps are pretty standard training techniques. I wish there was a bit more focus on actual training. I agree with other reviewers that it's hard to make a training book that addresses the needs of all levels of climbers, and the audience for a higher level book would be much smaller and harder to sell to...nonetheless this book left me wanting more.
22 of 22 people found the following review helpful.
Comprehensive Training for Climbers
By J. Liles
"The Self-Coached Climber" is an excellent training resource for climbers at just about any level. I bought the book recently and before even finishing reading it, I started seeing improvements in my technique from working on the exercises.
In contrast to other books like "How to Climb 5.12," SCC is highly detailed and specific in its approach to improving fundamentals like balance, center of gravity and movement skills. The book provides excellent exercises for particular skills, and these are illustrated with abundant photos and/or drawings that show how the exercise should be done. Additionally, videos on the accompanying DVD can clarify any confusion with the exercises. Finally, a detailed training plan is presented for developing the stamina, strength and technique needed to move up in the climbing grades.
I think it's worth noting that while this is billed as a "self-coached" training book, some of the exercises can't be done without a partner. In fact, working with an equally-motivated partner through the course of the book would probably be the ideal approach.
I believe "The Self-Coached Climber" is a perfect companion piece to Arno Ilgner's mental training book "The Rock Warrior's Way" for anyone wanting to become a better and more confident climber.
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful.
Have fun reaching new heights
By Margaret D
The book arrived moments before I left the house for a day of climbing. I skimmed through the book, taking note of some new moves to try. I went on to reach personal bests that day.
Now that I've had a chance to read more, the book is still my favorite book on climbing. Full of thought provoking images and ideas, the "Self Coached Climber" is clearly written and fun to read. The book is so full of terrific info and images, I haven't even looked at the enclosed DVD yet.
One of the nicest features about the images is that they show the climbing moves from several angles rather than just one so there is no need to guess at what you can't see (a problem with many climbing books).
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